Go West! Tour - PCH - Day 5

Day 5 on Two Wheels

Redding, CA to Chiloquin, OR - 204 miles

We began the day with a stop at Redding H-D to purchase 50 cents worth of coolant for $11.95. Needed just a bit to top-off the reservoir. I was going to chat-up a service advisor regarding Dusty’s recent heat problems, but none were to be found...

Our big dilemma was which route to take back to Chiloquin, the slab or the backroads. The slab takes us up some scenic canyons on the cooler, west side of the finger of the Cascades. Go too far north and we get into the smoke from the Milepost 97 fire. The backroads take us on the west side of the Cascades, a drier, warmer, and less interesting ride. It also takes us through part of the Modoc National Forest, where there is a fire burning, and right through a sagebrush fire near Tulelake. We opted for the slab (Waypoints 29-30).

The routing took us through Mount Shasta City which provided a nice view of the west face of Mount Shasta.

We took the opportunity to have lunch at the Black Bear Diner. It was a great meal, but when I went to wash up, I got a little confused. Do I stand up or sit down. Leave the seat up or down?

On the way out of town, Liz was able to catch a view of the north face of Mount Shasta.

We’ll spend Wednesday doing laundry and loading the SUV and trailer for the return trip. First stop will be Lake Tahoe for a day ride through old Gold Rush towns.

A word about Eureka, CA

We spent way too much time in Eureka due to the various bike problems, but it was the largest of the town’s along the path where the problems initiated. 

Maybe it was the looks we got from people. Maybe it was that uncomfortable feeling when walking into Walmart, I turned back and asked Liz to stay with the bike. Maybe it was the young motorcyclist who came up to us and said it’s not a good idea to leave your helmets on your bike in this town. Maybe it was the number of homeless and mentally challenged people walking around - they were all over the place all through town. 

Maybe it was all in my head, but that place just gave us both the creeps. I’ve never had a whole town make me feel uneasy...well, except for that time I stopped for gas one hot summer evening in Selma, AL.

Go West! Tour - PCH - Day 4

Day 4 on Two Wheels

Shelter Cove, Ca to Redding, CA - 149 miles

Dusty was being a royal biotch today. I mean ROYAL bitch.

The Milepost 97 fire had eliminated my original routing and after a quick check of CalTrans, I learned that the alternate road I had intended to take was closed due to construction. Plan C was in effect, take CA-299 out of Alcarta, CA to Redding.

We rode back to Redway, CA (the road from Hell!) for fuel. Not so bad once I knew the road condition and general layout. As we began the journey west out of Redway, two idiot lights came on - the Check Engine and Temp. I’ve had this happen before and it wasn’t more than a 10 amp fuse, so I stopped and replaced the fuse to no avail. 

Not much else to do but check-in with a dealer...

We road into Eureka and tried to call the local H-D dealer, Redwood H-D, along the way. They were closed. We stopped for lunch and I checked the diagnostic codes. Armed with that info, I checked to see if the Redding dealer was open on Monday. They were not. So I reached out to Sett who connected me with Thermodyne. We concluded that the culprit was most likely the water pump, not a problem if we keep moving. So we headed off to Redding.

About 60 miles into the journey and several stops for construction delays, the idiot lights went out. Go figure.

The ride along CA-299 was amazing. The road traverses several mountain ranges and delivers beautiful views along the way. The last 30 miles were scarred from the Carr Fire in 2018, which started with a blown-out tire and a rim sparking to start the fire. It was a sad sight to see.

I did get a great pic while en-route and we made it to Redding, only to learn that another fire had started in the Modac National Forest, which will likely alter out routing on the way back to Chiloquin, OR. Such is the life in Northern California during the dry season. Remember, always have a backup plan...and liquor for Happy Hour.

Sights along the way...

When searching for a replacement 10 amp fuse, we stopped at an auto parts store in Scotia, CA where I found this innovative new lawn mower. Not sure if the design is solid, but might be fun trying it out! Unfortunately, demo rides were not offered.

Go West! Tour - PCH - Day 3

Day 3 on Two Wheels

Klamath, CA to Shelter Cover, CA - 154 miles

Todays routing was between Waypoints 13 and 26.

Dusty loved her little parking spot at the Holiday Inn Express. She didn’t want to leave. No. Really. She was very hesitant. She had the battery flu. It had shown signs earlier on the trip and I guess the lower overnight temps was just enough to impact the cold cranking amp capacity.

I finally got her started and we kept her running until we got to Eureka, CA. Redwoods H-D is not open on Sundays, so I mapped-out the three auto parts stores in town and Walmart. AutoZone and O’Reilly’s didn’t have the right battery. Walmart did, but it had a manufacture date of 7/17 and there was no way I was going to buy a two year old battery...probably wouldn’t have even have turned over the engine. NAPA had the needed battery and it had a 4/19 manufacture date. SOLD! 

I’m no certified mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. An hour spent running between the stores and 30 minutes to install, and we were back on the road. Well, technically, it was past lunch time so that was the priority.

The Avenue of the Giants was amazing. We stopped several times along the way and hiked through Founders Grove.

These trees are massive...and this wasn’t considered one of the giants!

Several had fallen, leaving the root ball exposed. Mother Nature is an accomplished artist.

At 372 feet, the Dyerville Giant was the world’s tallest tree until it fell in 1991. It was estimated to be 1,600 years old. 

We spent the night in Shelter Cove, a small remote hamlet on the coast. I didn’t tell Liz much about the place, wanting her to be surprised by the views. But I was the one surprised, the road in was one of the most treacherous 21 miles I’ve ever ridden. Narrow with a steep grade and tight turns. No guardrail and long, long drop offs. Looking forward to re-tracing it on the way out. NOT!

Here are the views off of our balcony. It truly was amazing.

This marks the turnaround point for our two wheel adventures. Tomorrow, we start heading back to Chiloquin. However, our planned routing will need to be modified due to the smoke from the Milepost 97 fire near Canyonville, OR creating unhealthy air quality for the communities to the south. One of the hazards of traveling through wilderness areas, I suppose.

Go West! Tour - PCH - Day 2

Day 2 on Two Wheels

Florence, OR to Klamath, CA - 206 miles

I’ll have to take the Old Town Inn off my list of recommended motels. It was a restless night of sleep due to the lack of air conditioning and the morning shower was disappointing due to a crappy shower head. We passed on the donut and packaged pastry breakfast too. But, hey, we didn’t get murdered and Dusty was unmolested, so that counts for something.

Here is our routing for the day (Waypoints 9-13)

We noticed a lot of trailers loaded with ATVs and off-road side-by-side vehicles while riding around Florence. Hmmm, must be some recreational areas nearby. Sure enough, just south of Florence, we entered the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. The dunes were impressive, with the ones abutting the highway measuring about 30 feet high!

The highway plays peek-a-boo with the coast line for the first 100 miles of the ride. It wasn’t until Port Oxford that we got our first face-to-face introduction with the Pacific Ocean.

But the next 106 miles were pretty awesome.

Dusty wanted some selfies...

We stopped in Gold Beach for a fantastic lunch at the Barnacle Bistro. It is a very small venue, only 8-10 tables. We both chowed down on Fish and Chips. They used freshly caught local Oregon Rockfish (very flaky) that was lightly battered. It was accompanied by slaw and garlic french fries. Perfectly executed. Thank you, TripAdvisor!

Just south of Crescent City, we entered the Del Norte Coast Redwood State Park. The park is heavily forested with Douglas Fir and, wait for it....redwoods. But these aren’t the giant redwoods. We have to wait until tomorrow to see those.

No vacation is complete without stopping at a historic tourist trap, even if is to only use the restroom. The Trees of Mystery was ours. It’s kind of hard to miss...the 70-foot tall Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox, Babe, have been luring unsuspecting tourists since the late 1940’s. 

Our landing spot for the evening was the Redwood Hotel and Casino in Klamath, CA, a Holiday Inn Express property. Klamath is a very tiny town and home to the Yurok Tribe. When I booked it, I didn’t realize a casino was attached...or at least that is the story I’m sticking to. Liz gave me a kitchen pass to enter said casino, but I was a little disappointed to see that it was a slots-only venue. Homey don’t do slots. Dinner at the Abalone Bar and Grill was outstanding, topped with a Bloody Mary that was one of the best that has ever passed through my lips. It’s a very nice property that made Dusty feel very welcomed too.

Tomorrow is the Avenue of the Giants and a secluded hotel on the beach.

Go West! Tour - PCH - Day 1

Day 1 on Two Wheels. 

Chiloquin, OR to Florence, OR - 265 miles.

Today’s journey began at Crater Lake National Park. We’ve seen it before the renovations on the lodge, so I just wanted to get a fresh perspective on the facilities and views. It is truly an amazing natural wonder.

Crater Lake is a natural lake formed by an extinct (we hope!) volcano. The volcano basin was filled with snow melt and rain yielding a very cold and large lake. With a maximum depth of 1,949 feet, the lake is the deepest (and clearest) in the United States. The lake is 5 miles x 6 miles, with the rim elevation between 7,000-8,000 feet. The lake is the ninth deepest lake in the world. Because of the clear water and depth of the lake, the color is a brilliant blue. The water temp at the bottom of the lake is a consistent 38 degrees. The pics don’t do it justice...

After enjoying the views, we stopped at the Diamond Lake Junction Cafe and feasted on the Wally Burger - one of the best I have ever eaten. 1/3 pound hamburger with bacon, cheese, the fixings, and grilled onions. The fries were homemade-style and to die for. 

With bellies full, we continued our journey to Florence, OR via Eugene, home of Oregon State University (which my nephew attended). 

The landscape went from high sierra to lush forest. Beautiful.

The temps approached 92 as we entered Eugene, calling for a stop at McDonalds for a hot fudge sundae and water. As we continued west of Eugene, we went through the lower Cascades and the temps subsided quickly. By the time we reached Florence, we were in the lower 70’s, quite enjoyable. We enjoyed a Good (not great) meal at the Bridgewater Fish House and Zebra Bar. The evening ended with a Happy Hour outside our room at the Old Town Inn (no air conditioning), but the temps were accommodating.

Tomorrow, the PCH to Klamath, CA (an Indian reservation venue). I hope Dusty doesn’t get compromised. Life on the road.