It was a cold day in...April

As much as I love to ride, sometimes life gets in the way.

Over the past 60-days, my riding (and writing) time has been consumed by attending to my lovely bride in her recovery from major back surgery and the sale of, and resulting move from, our primary residence. With the recovery going very well (hoping to have her back on the bike by the fall) and the move behind us, it was time to get El Semental Negro, my new trusty steed, out on the road to stretch his gears.

With only a couple of days advance notice, I was able to persuade my buddy Bill (aka “Iron Butt”) to join me on the 2-day, 850-mile ride through Northwest Arkansas. Actually, I had hoped to make it a 3-day ride, but ole' Iron Butt had other plans.

It was a cold day in…April when departed the new base camp in East Texas. Making a run into the mountains always results in cooler riding temps, but it was a chilly 48 degrees when we hit the road at 7am. Not that cold until you get going 70mph, which tends to be the low-end of the pace when riding with Iron Butt.

Bill had traveled light, bringing only a lined nylon mesh jacket, so he layered-on his rain suit to help knock the wind chill. Knowing he’d get no sympathy from me, he sucked it up and only whined in the form of a weather report, “Looks like the clouds will burn off and I’ll take this crap off after our first stop.” We figured we’d ride for a hour or so, then stop for breakfast and the temps would catch-up. Wrong. We were in leathers (or in Bill’s case, the rain suit) the entire day since the temps barely topped 60 degrees.

Tour de Arkansas - 2010
Map created using Microsoft Streets and Trips 2009

© Microsoft Corporation 2009

It was Bill’s first journey into Northwest Arkansas on a motorcycle, so the plan was to cover as much road as possible, stopping for groceries and Kodak moments as the whim hits us. Our target destination for Day 1 was Ozark via Hot Springs, so we hit the slab (I-30) in Texarkana to cover the flat lands as quickly as possible. We exited I-30 at Caddo Valley, where we took AR-7 north towards Hot Springs.

Running almost the entire length of the state, from Harrison in the north to El Dorado in the south, AR-7 is the central nervous system of great motorcycle roads in Arkansas, with many, many great loops and side roads along the way. For months, Bill has been going on and on about riding AR-7, so I routed as much of the trip as possible to accommodate his lust.

As we danced around the foothills of the southern tip of the Ouachita Mountains, the road into Hot Springs was a good warm-up to things to come. We stopped for lunch at the Brick House Grill in downtown Hot Springs, then scouted a few candidate sites for Thunder Road Motorcycle Lodge before hitting AR-7 for our first run through the mountains.

Bill gets a woody every time you talk about running the twisties through the mountains, so after giving him a heads-up about Arkansas signage (multiple chevrons on a curve generally indicate you can take the curve at +20mph over the posted speed, while a curve with a rectangular solid arrow sign deserves more respect), I told him to take the lead and that I would meet him at the convenience store in Ola. My experience is that it is best to let the boy run on the first set of twisties and you’ll either see him pulled over by local law enforcement authorities along the way or waiting patiently at the designated rendezvous site. Despite his excellent driving skills and track record, I always look for fresh skid marks along the way, just in case the road bites him…or he it.

AR-7 did not disappoint. The trees and foliage were in various stages of bloom and the air full of sweet smells (and pollen). The road was in great condition, with only one small section under repair. We were taking our journey mid-week, so there were a fair number of retirees maneuvering their massive recreational vehicles in an effort to reposition for the next step of their endless road journey. At times, threading these moving obstacles courses are considered added entertainment when performed on mountain roads. And on some days, they are nothing short of death defying learning experiences, which I experienced on the return leg of the trip.

After a quick break in Ola, we headed west on AR-10, which meanders through the Petit Jean River Valley between the Big O's, the Ouachita and Ozark national forests. The road is lined with farms and thickets, crisscrossing creeks and streams as you follow the sun. Along the way, one often catches a whiff of the unique aroma generated by a chicken farm which, if you haven’t been blessed with such an experience, is about like sticking your nose in your 3-year-old’s worst diaper…times 20. You know you are out of range when the burning stops.

About fifteen miles in, I notice that the smell isn’t going away, so I begin looking for the culprit. No nearby chicken farms. Lunch wasn’t that spicy and my pants are clean. Bill is too far behind me for it to be him. Hmmm. And just then we pop over a hill and come upon the shit wagon – literally a dump truck LOADED with twelve cubic yards of chicken shit. OMG! And he’s turning on our next cut-off!

Our eyes were watering as we rounded the corner and Bill was shouting, “We gotta get around this guy!” We did and just as he was disappearing from my rear-view mirror, I realized that we had turned on AR-307, not AR-309. Damn! We had to make a U-turn and were blessed with one final whiff as we sped by.

With fresh air back in our face, we found AR-309 and headed north to The Lodge at Mount Magazine, located within the Mount Magazine State Park. The mountain has hosted several lodging establishments since the late 1800’s, and if I am not mistaken, all of them have been destroyed by fires, forest or otherwise. The current facility was built by the State of Arkansas and was dedicated in 2002 by then-governor Mike Huckabee (of the 2008 presidential campaign fame). The lodge has a breathtaking southern view over the Petit Jean River Valley and boasts bluffs higher than 200 feet. For those of you who are more adventurous, Mount Magazine also offers a hang gliding launch site (must be Class 4 certified). I’ve never stayed at The Lodge, but have attempted on numerous occasions during summer months only to learn that they book-up quickly.

It was easily 10 degrees cooler in the mountains (back into the 50’s) and after a 30-minute rest stop and photo shoot, we continued on our final leg into Ozark. On the north side of Mount Magazine, AR-309 follows a path cut out of granite, providing spectacular sights along the way as we switch-backed through the Ozark National Forest. This was the first time I have travelled south-to-north on AR-309, and I think I prefer the north-to-south perspective better.

With limited options in Ozark, I tend to stick to what I know, and I know Rivertowne BBQ always delivers great groceries. Today was no exception and we feasted on a combination plate of brisket, pulled pork, and ribs. Perhaps the only BBQ joint in the world that doesn’t sell beer, we went next door to The Speak Easy lounge for a couple of rounds and to see if my old buddy Curtis was still around. Curtis the rest of the Not Ready for Prime Time Players were nowhere to be found, but we did meet Roy, who appeared to be Curtis’ little brother based on the stories he told. We stayed at the Days Inn and awoke to 45 degree temps the next morning.

After a hearty breakfast at the Ozark Restaurant and a refueling stop, we headed for the Pig Trail Scenic Byway (AR-23). The most recent winter has not been kind to the Pig Trail, as there were several crews repairing the road where erosion generated by the melting snows have caused rock slides and road collapse. The Arkansas State Highway and Transportation Department is to be commended for making the repairs so quickly and it looks like the road could use a complete resurfacing in the next year or so. Meanwhile, I caution riders to watch for loose gravel in areas where the repairs have been completed. 

Deer were foraging for food along the road and we encountered several herds of white tail deer feeding after we turned east on AR-16. This road runs the ridge along the Ozarks and provides spectacular views to the north and south. It was along here that we also snuck-up on another shit wagon, but we were able to swing around in record time, avoiding the nasal burns. I thought seriously about taking AR-21 south, having received good reports on that road from another biker at the BBQ joint the night before, but opted to stick with the original plan of coming down AR-7 back into Russellville.

It pained me to cut the trip into NW Arkansas so short, but doing so was the only way we were going to complete this ride in 2-days. Given more time, I would have made a loop on AR-7, AR-123, and AR-21, several times, then spent a night in one of my favorite towns, Eureka Springs, before exploring more sites in and around the Ozark National Forest. Hopefully, it wet Bill’s appetite enough that he’ll return.

I know I’ll be back and I’m not waiting for another cold day in April to do it!

© 2010 TRHG Holdings LLC

What's This About a Motorcycle Lodge?

Over the last six months, I have shared some tales of the Road and provided insight into what the Thunder Road Motorcycle Lodge concept is all about, hopefully providing a few interesting stories along the way.

Now I need your help.

It’s time to “Road” test some of the concepts we have envisioned. I need your feedback so that I can refine the concept, select the site for the flagship property, and put the final plan into action. Not only do I want your feedback, I want the feedback of at least 10 bikers with whom you regularly ride….and even more feedback from 10 of their riding buddies. So if you find the Thunder Road Motorcycle Lodge concept compelling, help get the message out. After all, Thunder Road is all about building a community among those who share a passion for the road.

To help collect the information, I have added some survey questions in the sidebar to the right. Vote once, vote often – I want to tap into your passion for the Road. I also encourage your comments to this blog entry - tell me more about what you want, need, and expect while touring. 

So here goes…

Cruisin' the Backroads

Most bikers take one or two multi-day rides per year. If you are among the few who make time for more, consider yourself blessed. What are your favorite overnight destinations?

When taking a multi-day ride, do you prefer to ride alone, with your significant other, or with a group?

Candidate Property

Piney Woods of East Texas

I envision Thunder Road Motorcycle Lodge to be a rustic lodge setting with amenities that cater to the biker crowd. For example, the lodge will offer a restaurant with food like Mom used the make, a bar that Pops would be proud to call his own, and an entertainment venue for small live performances (after all, who wants a dead performance). It will have a large outdoor patio with a fire pit that we can sit around while smoking our cigars and tellin’ lies about the roads we’ve traveled…while sippin’ tequila or your favorite cold one. We'll also have an outdoor entertainment venue for hosting concerts and rallies for up to 5,000 people. Are you in?

The Great Room

Patio view of the lake

55 acre spring fed lake

Now, for the important stuff.

We all know we need to make Momma happy. To that end, we'll have over 50 cabins that cater to the biker and your significant other. The log or stone cabins will be tucked away in the woods overlooking a mountain view or lake; and include covered parking for your most prized possession; a king-size bed for, well, you know; a storage area for your leathers and gear; a boot and glove dryer for those days when you couldn’t get to the bar soon enough; free internet access; and in-room entertainment to help put you to sleep. What are we missing?

2-Bedroom Cabin - Exterior

2-Bedroom Cabin - Interior

We’re all on a budget these days, so when selecting lodging, what most drives your decision – price, ammenities, location, safety of your bike, internet access? When traveling with other couples, would you prefer 2-bedroom cabin so that you can share with another couple? When travelling without a significant other, do you prefer to stay in your own room or do you bunk up with a friend?  

Oh, and one more thing. To make it truly Thunder Roadworthy, would you prefer a chocolate mint on your pillow or an ice cold beer at check-in?

© 2010 TRHG Holdings LLC

Visiting a Founding Father

While most of the fall colors are nearing an end, Mother Nature held out for one more show this weekend. We made a run from Tyler to Nacogdoches, home of Stephen F. Austin University, via the backroads and the scenery was outstanding.

Any road heading east out of Tyler is a good road, but FM-850 has the most character. Formerly part of the main highway between Tyler and Henderson, FM-850 cuts its way through the countryside like a kiddie roller coaster - nothing too sharp or steep to make a 50-year-old kid scream, but enough to make you anxious for what's around the next corner. Along the way, you pass an occaisional hay farm and the colorful homes of the hard working folk that make East Texas so friendly. 

You'll also drive through Overton, which was founded in 1873. On the "I didn't know that!" front, Overton was the official seat of government for the Republic of Texas independence movement from 2003-05. The Republic of Texas group is/was a separatist group that claims the annexation of Texas by the United States was illegal and that Texas remains an independent nation under occupation. The Republic of Texas headquarters burned down in August of 2005. I guess the debate is over...or is it?

From Overton, take FM-323 southeast towards Henderson. On the way, you'll pass through New London, the site of a tragic school explosion on March 18, 1937, killing almost 300 children, teachers, and parents. You may not realize it, but this tragedy led to the injection of the distinct, scented odor in natural gas, as the cause of the explosion was a natural gas leak. Unscented in its natural form, the undetected gas had accumulated in the building's classrooms and hallways, and was ignited when the shop teacher turned on a sander that created a spark. The buildings were completely leveled. A testament to East Texas' compassion and determination, the school was rebuilt and a memorial erected that stands proud today.

Continuing on FM-323, you will weave your way through the pine tree forests and farmlands to Henderson, the county seat of Rusk County.

FM 225 out of south side of Henderson is a treasure trove of twists, curves, and gentle rolling hills through the Piney Woods. As you head south, you will go through Laneville, Cushing, and my personal favorite, Looneyville. Expecting a scene from the cartoons or a Jack Nicholson movie, I almost missed the lone sign and dilapidated, empty general store that makes up the unofficial town center.

Taking FM 343 out of Looneyville puts you on your final leg of the journey to Nacogdoches, the Oldest Town in Texas. A cross between a regional commercial center, college town, and logging town, Nacogdoches is rich with historical architecture, great southern cooking, and an occaisional watering hole or two. No doubt, "Nac" is in deep East Texas where the pace is slower and most everyone willing to strike-up conversation. Make the time to see the Millard's Crossing Historic Village, the Nacogdoches Railroad Depot, the Statue Trail, and the Caddoan Mounds State Historic Site while you're in the area.

But most of all, enjoy the tour. It's definately Thunder Roadworthy!

© 2009 TRHG Holdings LLC

Time to Break Out the Leathers

With Fall riding season just around the corner, I thought it might be a good idea to get out the leathers to see if I will be able to ride in cooler weather. You see, it's been a hectic summer and with stress comes eating and little extra beer...and the inevitable rider's cushion that comes along with it. Luckily, I usually drink Michelob Ultra, so it looks like we'll be seeing the colors again this year.

Just as Spring means touring to see the wildflowers in the Texas Hill Country, the Fall is all about seeing the colors in the Piney Woods of East Texas or a brisk ride into the mountains of northwest Arkansas. This year, we hope to spend many weekends touring the winding Farm-to-Market roads and rolling hills of East Texas.

This part of Texas is my secret motorcycle touring treasure. I took a friend, Patrik, on an all-day trip there a couple of years ago and, to this day, every time I see him he begs to make the trip again. Coming from a guy who grew-up riding in the Swiss Alps, I think he knows beautiful scenery when he sees it.

One of my favs is FM-16 between Canton and US-271, just south of Gladewater. A Texas Forest Trails road, FM-16 is a great alternative to I-20 / US-80, running through the thriving metropolises of Lindale, Red Springs, and Winona along the way. All three communities are have vestiges of the big oilfield days of the 1930's, but have been reduced to primarily rural bedroom communities of Tyler, the Rose Capital of Texas.

If you are a burger connoisseur, the East Texas Burger Company in Mineola is a must stop. Set in a 100 year-old building on Main Street (US-80), this little burger joint is world renown for its hand-packed patties and fresh-cut french fries. They also offer another of my favorites, chicken fried steak, but I've never been able to eat both in one setting.

Once you're fed and watered, go north about a half-mile on US-69, then hang a right on FM-49. This road is my #2 in East Texas. You see a little of everything on FM-49, hay fields, pine tree forests, rolling hills, expansive creek bed views, and pristine two lane roads with huge tree canopies. In the fall, the trees really put on a show, usually at their peak between late-September and Halloween. If you have the time, take FM-49 all the way into Gilmer, the horse farms in the last five miles will remove any remaining stress you might have in your body.

Continuing east out of Gilmer, you have two great options to run the perimiter of Lake 'O the Pines. Option #1, go northwest on TX-155 to Avinger, then right on FM-729 to Jefferson. FM-729 is a twisty two-lane cruise through the pine forests on the east side of the lake. It is 23 miles of sensory overload all the way into Jefferson.

Option #2 is TX-154 east for about two miles, then left on FM-726. FM-726 takes many turns as you journey through the small villages that make this part of rural Americana. Simply follow the signs for Jefferson. You'll have several options along the way and every one of them worth take multiple times.

Jefferson is the Fredericksburg of East Texas. Chocked full of quaint antique shops, B&B's, and small inns, many of the establishments in Jefferson boast of being haunted by ghosts. My friend, Phil, will testify to that fact, but that is a completely different blog entry to be told at a later time. The biker bar of record is Auntie Skinners. Go there, enjoy the delicious food and cold beer, and tip your waitress well -- they do a great job there.

© 2009 TRHG Holdings LLC

A Closer Look

As a follow-up to the trip in May, we returned to the Hill Country this weekend to take a second look at serveral of the properties that we scouted in May.

One property, in particular, was along TX-16 between Kerrville and Bandera.  It requires a considerable amount of renovations, but would allow the Thunder Road Motorcycle Lodge to be in business in time for the 2010 riding season. The property was recently purchased in a short-sale and the new Buyer has not yet determined whether they want to make a go of it or flip it to turn a quick buck.  After touring the property in more detail and several days of negotiations, we determined he was leaning more towards the former. Good luck to him...and we look forward to having him as a competitor, as it will be an easy choice for our guests to stay at The Road. 

The Hill Country continues with the two year drought. At this point, most of the the spring-fed creeks and rivers have all gone underground. Between the drought and the economy, time is on our side. We have two properties that are strong contenders and the right terms will come along in due time.

© 2009 TRHG Holdings LLC

This is THE place!

Day 3
We awoke to partly cloudy skies on Wednesday, so we steered west through Ingram, Hunt, and points yonder on TX-39. The first 20 miles out of Kerrville are nothing short of awesome - rolling hills and gentle curves as we follow the creeks through the valley with a tree canopy overhead to soften the morning sunshine. It's a little cool, so we resist the urge to stop and dip the toes in the spring-fed creeks, we'll save that for the return trip.

Yesterday was good, but this is it, I thought. We've found "THE place" for Thunder Road. Hell, "THE place" is all around this part of the Hill Country! Wow, look at that 6-point buck in the woods! You get the drift, we were already into sensory overload and hadn't eaten lunch yet. Once we pass the FM-187 turn-off, we leveled off to a classic scene from an old cowboy movie. "Home, Home on the Range" begins to go through my head...I'd be able to actually hear it on the XM radio had I bought the Ultra yesterday.

Yet another thunderstorm was brewing about 50 miles out and headed our way. With nothing but longhorns and an occasional ranch hand's truck in sight, I twisted the throttle back to race the storm to US-83, then TX-41 where we would turn back east for our return loop. We beat the storm, but it was gaining in intensity. Coming south on FM-1340, we began to descend through the canyons, passing the summer camps, and we came upon...well, what looked to be Stonehenge! The site attracts a fair amount of visitors each day, but we opted to keep cruising to stay ahead of the rain.

We spent the afternoon looking at property in and around Bandera, ending up in the 11th Street Saloon for a beer briefing. We’d seen some good site options, but need to look further. "Can I get another beer, please?" I ask as I'm looking around the bar whose walls are lined with bras of all shapes, sizes, and colors. Rodney Carrington's Titties and Beer song immediately comes to mind. Maybe these cowboys are on to something...

Day 4
We headed south on our new favorite road, TX-16, for breakfast in Medina. On a whim, we stopped at The Rusty Rooster, a tiny cafe located in what used to be "the" gas station in this tiny, quarter mile long town. OMG!! Get Ride Texas or Texas Highways on the phone, the food was awesome and the proprietor was very friendly! Note to self, we'll be back tomorrow...and this time, ask his name!

Today was reserved for the Three Twisted Sisters. RR-337 is a dream road - starting with gentle rolling turns, then heading up the mountain pass (OK, a Texas mountain pass) and along the ridge for 36 glorious miles. The road is in great condition, but not too many places to pull over and enjoy the views or water the flowers. As you come down from the final ridge, you cross a (normally) flowing Frio River and into Leakey. A word to the wise, if you don’t pronounce it “LAY-key”, they’ll figure you’re a tourist and charge you double at the counter.

We make a pit stop and run into Ralph and Doris, a retired couple from the valley (South Texas). Ralph wants to buy a motorcycle, but Doris seems to think he's too short and fat to hold it up...and she's not about to get on the back of one of those things! Does she really think that was his intent? Sometimes loud pipes have a purpose.

We continue on RR-337 towards Camp Wood and about 10 miles out, come-up on two bikers ahead of us...and a herd of Axis deer in-between. LOTS of deer - probably 12-15 of them of all sizes! The problem was, they were scrambling along the left shoulder of the road, where they kept bouncing off of a game fence and back towards the road. Not wanting to become roadkill ourselves, we slowed to allow them to disperse and cross over to jump the low fence on the right shoulder. Note to self, I responded admirably, but could have reacted even better if I had that new Ultra with ABS brakes.

While refueling in Camp Wood, we met the town jester. He was about 75 years-old and pulled up on his little 50cc scooter that he uses to go down to the senior center for a hot lunch with the ladies. He was born in Camp Wood but saw the world in the military.

The gentleman gave us a quick historical tour, pointing out the old hardware store that Charles Lindbergh crashed into back in 1924. They ordered a new wing for his plane and once installed, he crashed again on take-off after he hit an overhead wire. Apparently, the third time was charm and he never returned. For those more macabre, the chopped-up bodies of the famous atheist Madelyn Murray O’Hair and her son were found in a barrel in the gravel pit down the road in 2001.

He was also full of jokes, but the best was his closing line about why he likes to ride his scooter while wearing baggy shorts, “I like the feeling of the wind on my wiener.” Perhaps no truer words have ever been spoken by a seasoned biker.

RR-335 is often referred to as Roller Coaster Road. Once you get into the hills, the road criss-crosses and follows a ridge overlooking the Sabinal River. It is an excellent scenic tour for the passenger, a little less so for the rider given the curves and constant terrain change, but a must-ride road for anyone on an iron horse.

After a boring, but short eastward run across TX-41, we turned back south on RR-336. I can’t really top the descriptions about the other Sisters, but RR-336 brings in a new challenge…cattle guards. You see, this road cuts through several large free-range ranches, where there are no fences along the roads. So when you’re moving from one tract to the next, you cross through a cattle guard.

Where there are cattle guards, there are...well, cattle. Now, cattle aren't inclined to jump into traffic like deer might, but they also don't clear the road just because you happen along into their world. That's safety lesson of the day #1. Safety lesson #2 is for you foreigners who ain’t ridden' across a cattle guard before. Here are three words of advice – slow and straight – especially if the roads are wet! The road gets really interesting as you descend from the plateau, with lots of switchbacks and terrain changes to keep the thrill factor high.

By the time we got back into Leakey, we needed a pit stop and a cold brew. Both were ready and waiting at the Frio Canyon Motorcycle Stop.

We spent the remainder of the day cruising through the Frio River Canyon and Utopia, then headed back to Kerrville for some much needed showers. Probably could have handled another 100 miles had we been on the Ultra.

© 2009 TRHG Holdings LLC

Kickstands Up!

The purpose of our trip to the Texas Hill Country is two-fold. First, to stop the craziness we call life and breathe a little, just the two of us. Second, to look for some new craziness. You see, we're on a life-changing journey to start a hospitality company dedicated to the needs and comfort of touring bikers.

Our goal is to build a portfolio of a dozen properties spread along popular touring roads across the South and Southwest. Regardless of what brand, all bikers share one thing in common - we’re looking for places to ride. We prefer to travel in groups along scenic roads, and to frequent establishments where bikers are welcome and the bikes are safe – places where we can share tales of the day’s ride with friends, both new and old, while enjoying a cold beer and a roaring fire. Then adjourning to a comfortable cabin with a king size bed where the old muscles and bones can heal before hitting the road again tomorrow.

After months of planning and market research, we've set our sights on the Hill Country for the flagship property. The properties will be called the Thunder Road Motorcycle Lodge. But once you've been there, we hope you'll call it home.

Day 1
We arrived in Kerrville around dusk on Monday and the clouds were building to the west, just over the hills. By the time we unloaded and had adult beverages in-hand, the light show began. Mother Nature had the stage to herself last night, providing a spectacular storm with crackling thunder and lightening that would have made Zeus proud. The eternal biker optimist, I figure she was just cleaning the roads on our behalf. And, given the area is in a two-year drought, who was I to complain?

Once the storms passed, a constant rain sang its sweet lullaby and we were off to sleep.

© 2009 TRHG Holdings LLC

Destination: Texas Hill Country

Every April, I open up the map and start looking for an interesting destination for a 'Bring in the Spring' motorcycle getaway. This year, the Texas Hill Country is the destination of choice and it looks like May 25-30 is the perfect time to make the trip.

We've been to the Hill Country many times, but usually spend most of it in the Highland Lakes area and Marble Falls because it's such an easy ride down from the DFW area. This year, we're going to ride the pinnacle of motorcycle roads in Texas...the Three Twisted Sisters, also known as the Twisted Sisters, The Sisters, or, in Texas Department of Transportation (TxDOT) lingo, FM-335, FM-336, and FM-337.

We'll make Kerrville our base camp, figuring any road worth taking is within a day's journey. Will also need to spend a little time in Bandera, I understand there is a watering hole or two worth visiting in the Cowboy Capital of the World.

Each weekend, thousands of bikers converge on the Hill Country, so I expect we'll see some old friends and make a few new ones too. Time to get the bike cleaned and road-ready.


© 2009 TRHG Holdings LLC